Day #3 features a fabulous ascent and descent, up and over the Mackinnon Pass. As we ascend we are entering Kia territory: these cute alpine parrots are the size of small dogs, and like to steal food out of packs. Boots left outside at night become Kia chew-toys. At the top of the pass, Mackinnon's monument and an abyss called "the 12-second drop." Then a steep, rocky, forested descent along water-courses, pools and falls. Arriving at well-appointed Quinton Lodge, there's time to park the pack and take a 45-minute walk to nearby Sutherland Falls: at 580 meters, the world's fifth-highest waterfall.